Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

XJ Lift Parts.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • XJ Lift Parts.

    Looking to get my XJ from 4.5" to 6.5" and need some things.

    Don't need to be new, but i would prefer if they looked decent and weren't beat to shit/bent/half broken.

    - 6.5" Lift Coils (Brand doesn't really matter as long as they're a true 6.5")
    - 35x12.5x17 (or 15) BFG KM2s. (Don't need new, but i want like 50-75% tread left. If they're mounted on rims, that's better.

    I want the 17s because i have (or will have) WJ steering on my HP D30 and i want to run offset TREs and i need 17s to clear them. 15s will clear but i can't run offset TREs.

    I actually have a few questions about running WJ Brakes. If any of you are running them and can offer assistance that would be wonderful.

    - Pitman arm. I think it needs to be a dropped pitman arm to run 6.5" of lift.
    - Shocks for 6.5" Of Lift. (Bilstein 5100s i think are decent - i'd prefer them but hit me with what you have.)
    - Looking for some sort of rear tire carrier bumper as well. Thinking about buying a JCR one, but they're really expensive.

    I think that's it for now unless you have something you think i'm missing here.

    If you have any of this, please list the brand, condition, your asking price, and if you're firm on it, oh and if you're willing to ship it (i'm not driving all the way across the state to pick up a $20 part and spend $50 on gas.)
    Last edited by Hudson; 07-02-2013, 11:40 PM.
    Hudson

    Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

    No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

  • #2
    You don't need 17's to clear the offset TRE's with a WJ setup.
    2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
    MK2 Jetta > M3
    Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Robin Fairchild View Post
      You don't need 17's to clear the offset TRE's with a WJ setup.
      I've heard 15s wont clear. Will 15s clear? Currently the tie rod i have hits the diff cover before the knuckles can get to full lock. I was thinking about grinding down the diff cover slightly to get it to go from lock to lock.

      I think the only other option is to go with Offset TREs but my concern is that my 15s won't clear them.
      Hudson

      Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

      No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

      Comment


      • #4
        I run 15s on 3.5" backspacing with WJ steering knuckles (1 ton ends/links)

        I dont run offset TREs though, we put a slight bend in my tie rod to clear the diff at the time (its DOM)
        - Will


        Originally posted by fizzy
        or am asians pants not a read end lol.
        Originally posted by DizzDizz
        aliens probed my husband

        Comment


        • #5
          Run a spacer. There's a couple people on here that did that to clear stock BS wheels with the WJ swap and either offset TRE's or Chevy 1-tons.
          2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
          MK2 Jetta > M3
          Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

          Comment


          • #6
            I'll just ask you guys a million questions as i have all the time in the world to put this in as i'm in no hurry at all. Bought these axles and are currently working on rebuilding them correctly and doing it right the first time around.

            Originally posted by HeavyMetal View Post
            I run 15s on 3.5" backspacing with WJ steering knuckles (1 ton ends/links)

            I dont run offset TREs though, we put a slight bend in my tie rod to clear the diff at the time (its DOM)
            Have any pictures? Does 3.5" backspacing make the tires stick out more or less than 4.50" of backspacing?

            I currently have 32x11.5x15 BFG KM2s mounted on crager soft eights. They have either 4.5 or 4.75" of backspacing.

            The DOM tube i have has a slight bend in it, but i'm not sure if it's intentional or not.

            Originally posted by Robin Fairchild View Post
            Run a spacer. There's a couple people on here that did that to clear stock BS wheels with the WJ swap and either offset TRE's or Chevy 1-tons.
            I heard something along the lines that when you run a spacer you make the track wider thus more pressure on the wheel bearing or something along those lines and it's not good. The hell do i know though?

            As for the WJ rotors. I'd assume i have to drill them to match the 5x4.5 bolt pattern, correct?

            Are offset TREs or chevy 1-tons better or is it just preference?

            I'm honestly not even sure the tie rod and drag link i was given with the axle is going to work on my jeep. Any way to figure it out now so i know i have everything when i actually go to swap axles?
            Hudson

            Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

            No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

            Comment


            • #7
              Just painted these tonight which is why they look so good. Hahah.

              Top one (drag link) is 34" center to center.

              Bottom one (tie rod) is about 52 1/2" center to center.

              Between the center of the tie rod and the end is about a 1/4" bend.

              Sound right? I want 6 1/2" lift without encountering bumpsteer. I have a RE straight track bar (also given to me with the axle) Should i use this or something else?

              There is also some custom bracketry on the front of the D30 for the track bar. Guy said it worked perfectly, but i'm not so sure it should be like that.

              Last edited by Hudson; 07-03-2013, 12:53 AM.
              Hudson

              Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

              No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

              Comment


              • #8
                Wait a minute...

                Did the kid you got it off live in Bethlehem or somewhere down there?

                As to the spacer thing... eh. I've run them for three years with no additional stress on the bearings, I think Will's had them a lot longer than that.

                As to the rotors, you can get 2002 Explorer Sportrac rotors (HAS to be 2002, 2001 the offset isn't enough) or get the Teraflex ones. The Sportrac rotors will need some form of spacer on the caliper bolts though (only 1/8").
                Last edited by Ruepart Hoaxley; 07-04-2013, 12:28 PM.
                2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
                MK2 Jetta > M3
                Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes, indeed he did. I can't tell if you're about to say something good or bad about that though.

                  He explained everything but was going nine million miles a minute super advanced jeep tech and i think i only caught about 1/4 of it.

                  How wide is your spacer?

                  Got it. I'd rather buy those rotors instead of drilling out WJ ones.
                  Last edited by Hudson; 07-04-2013, 02:03 PM.
                  Hudson

                  Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                  No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I know whose steering that was.
                    Last edited by Ruepart Hoaxley; 07-04-2013, 12:29 PM.
                    2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
                    MK2 Jetta > M3
                    Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah that's him. He was a bit sketchy. I probably wouldn't of bought them if two guys on naxja didn't say that they geared the axle, and that it was what it was advertised as.

                      He however did know a bunch of jeep tech. As he was off for about two hours on it.
                      He just said so much I kind of forgot all the important stuff ... Like whether or not this will work on my jeep or if I should change it now while its out.

                      He mentioned I'd get 'ZJ Backing plates' to swap the rear 44 to discs. He however forgot to mention that they were entirely rusted out and were most likely pulled out of the ocean. Hence the reason I'm trying to buy yours. Still confused as how to get discs on a 44 but ill figure it out.
                      Last edited by Hudson; 07-04-2013, 02:09 PM.
                      Hudson

                      Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                      No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Hudson View Post
                        Yeah that's him. He was a bit sketchy. I probably wouldn't of bought them if two guys on naxja didn't say that they geared the axle, and that it was what it was advertised as.

                        He however did know a bunch of jeep tech. As he was off for about two hours on it.
                        He just said so much I kind of forgot all the important stuff ... Like whether or not this will work on my jeep or if I should change it now while its out.

                        He mentioned I'd get 'ZJ Backing plates' to swap the rear 44 to discs. He however forgot to mention that they were entirely rusted out and were most likely pulled out of the ocean. Hence the reason I'm trying to buy yours. Still confused as how to get discs on a 44 but ill figure it out.
                        Disc brake rear is easy you need zj backing plates and calibers you open up the center then they bolt right on
                        -98 XJ 4.5" lift , 35's, trimmed, locked, geared, flexy
                        -14 Subaru STI hatch Stage 2ish
                        -54 Dodge Power wagon M-37
                        -57 GMC Pickup
                        -Tim (OIIIIIO)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The disc rear is easy. Pull rear shafts, swap backing plates, reinstall shafts, attach discs and calipers, bleed brakes.


                          Sent from my pay phone in Chechnya
                          2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
                          MK2 Jetta > M3
                          Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ill say a few quick things. Don't go to 6.5" its unnecessary. I run Wj knuckles with offset tre's and 15's with 1" spacers and its perfect
                            I drive a Datsun

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Burton58 View Post
                              Ill say a few quick things. Don't go to 6.5" its unnecessary. I run Wj knuckles with offset tre's and 15's with 1" spacers and its perfect
                              This. I have also done the Wj swap if you have any questions. Its pretty straight forward.
                              Dan.
                              2000 XJ, BJ 60 front, welded, 5.13's, 3 link, ruffstuff heims. D70 rear, detroit, 5.13's, discs. stretched. trail ready beadlocks. 39" Red labels. 4:1 Klune V-drive/D20, PSC full hydro

                              http://www.facebook.com/people/Dan-M...00000913365979
                              www.DMROFFROAD.com

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X