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I'm seriously considering selling the Cherokee. I'm trying to get an idea of what I could get for it.
THE GOOD-
A lot of new parts (Under 200miles) including cap, wires, steering box, rotor, battery, tires, FOX remote res. shocks, front rotors and pads, rear calipers, pads, and rotors, Clayton arms, rebuilt NP231 with SYE. Anyone who knows me can justify how well this Jeep was taken care of. Oil changes every 3000miles, ect. Doesn't overheat, will do 80mph all day without vibrations or issues.
THE BAD-
Cylinder 1 misfire due to bad valve seals. The head is not cracked. A re-manned head is around $350 shipped. Also, SOMETIMES the torque converter will unlock on the highway when you let off the gas but will lock back up after you get back on it. Steering is a bit loose but it doesn't bother me. Drives and runs nice.
HERES WHATS DONE TO IT
1996 Cherokee Sport
-Bushwacker Pocket Style Fender Flares
-4.0/AW4/NP231
-247,xxxMiles
-Doorless Mod
Front Axle (300miles on it)
-D30
-4.56 Yukon Gears
-Lube Locker Gasket
-Riddler Diff Cover
-Clayton LCA mounts
Rear Axle (300 miles on it)
-D44
-4.56 Motive Gears
-Lockrite Locker
-U-bolt style Yoke
-Riddler Diff Cover
-Lube Locker Gasket
-Disc Brake Conversion (Custom Monte Carlo SS front Rotors and Caddy Rear Calipers...just shy of a $600 conversion)
Suspension
-4.5" Rubicon Express Springs
-Clayton Long Arms and Crossmember
-Clayton LCA Brackets
-RE Extreme Duty Trac Bar w/bracket
-Fox 2.0 Remote res. shocks with JCR upper and lower mounts to work with the Heim ends
-Fox 2.0 Racing Shocks in back with JCR mounts (not Heim ends)
-RE Boomerang Shackles
-RE 3.5" Leaves
-LII Shackle relocation brackets
-Bump plates in rear with limit straps
-Limit straps up front
-Bump stopped + limit straps set up perfectly
Armor
-Kilby gas tank skid
-Steering box brace
-WARN T-case skid drilled and tapped into Clayton cross member
-Rear lower quarter armor
-Front frame stiffiners
-Homebrew Rock sliders tied and welded into unibody and pinch seam
-Hidden Hitch with recovery hook
-Homebrew (JCR knock off) front bumper with D-rings tied back past the steering box
Misc
-Flowmaster Super 40 Cat-back
-JCR Won Ton with custom steering dampener (removed now)
-1.75" Spydertrac wheel spacers
-35" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlars on 15 x 8 Cragar Soft 8's - no chunking; basically new
-Bushwacker Fender Flares
-KC Dayliters (2x 150W spots and 2x 130W floods) on Homebrew light bar (currently removed)
-Firestik II Antenna w/Cobra CB
-2001 XJ seats
-Vision X single stack 18" Light bar ($800MSRP)
-NEW FLOOR I forget the gauge of steel but its about twice the thickness of stock. Tack welded, hurc-u-liner- then carpet.
Great wheeling rig overall. I've been using it to get back and forth from work trying to keep miles off the Power Wagon. Ideally, I'm looking to get about $6000 for it. I'm also open to trade it for a center console fishing boat (18-25' range) with a trailer and no motor issues (tade plus cash obviously)
THE GOOD-
A lot of new parts (Under 200miles) including cap, wires, steering box, rotor, battery, tires, FOX remote res. shocks, front rotors and pads, rear calipers, pads, and rotors, Clayton arms, rebuilt NP231 with SYE. Anyone who knows me can justify how well this Jeep was taken care of. Oil changes every 3000miles, ect. Doesn't overheat, will do 80mph all day without vibrations or issues.
THE BAD-
Cylinder 1 misfire due to bad valve seals. The head is not cracked. A re-manned head is around $350 shipped. Also, SOMETIMES the torque converter will unlock on the highway when you let off the gas but will lock back up after you get back on it. Steering is a bit loose but it doesn't bother me. Drives and runs nice.
HERES WHATS DONE TO IT
1996 Cherokee Sport
-Bushwacker Pocket Style Fender Flares
-4.0/AW4/NP231
-247,xxxMiles
-Doorless Mod
Front Axle (300miles on it)
-D30
-4.56 Yukon Gears
-Lube Locker Gasket
-Riddler Diff Cover
-Clayton LCA mounts
Rear Axle (300 miles on it)
-D44
-4.56 Motive Gears
-Lockrite Locker
-U-bolt style Yoke
-Riddler Diff Cover
-Lube Locker Gasket
-Disc Brake Conversion (Custom Monte Carlo SS front Rotors and Caddy Rear Calipers...just shy of a $600 conversion)
Suspension
-4.5" Rubicon Express Springs
-Clayton Long Arms and Crossmember
-Clayton LCA Brackets
-RE Extreme Duty Trac Bar w/bracket
-Fox 2.0 Remote res. shocks with JCR upper and lower mounts to work with the Heim ends
-Fox 2.0 Racing Shocks in back with JCR mounts (not Heim ends)
-RE Boomerang Shackles
-RE 3.5" Leaves
-LII Shackle relocation brackets
-Bump plates in rear with limit straps
-Limit straps up front
-Bump stopped + limit straps set up perfectly
Armor
-Kilby gas tank skid
-Steering box brace
-WARN T-case skid drilled and tapped into Clayton cross member
-Rear lower quarter armor
-Front frame stiffiners
-Homebrew Rock sliders tied and welded into unibody and pinch seam
-Hidden Hitch with recovery hook
-Homebrew (JCR knock off) front bumper with D-rings tied back past the steering box
Misc
-Flowmaster Super 40 Cat-back
-JCR Won Ton with custom steering dampener (removed now)
-1.75" Spydertrac wheel spacers
-35" Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlars on 15 x 8 Cragar Soft 8's - no chunking; basically new
-Bushwacker Fender Flares
-KC Dayliters (2x 150W spots and 2x 130W floods) on Homebrew light bar (currently removed)
-Firestik II Antenna w/Cobra CB
-2001 XJ seats
-Vision X single stack 18" Light bar ($800MSRP)
-NEW FLOOR I forget the gauge of steel but its about twice the thickness of stock. Tack welded, hurc-u-liner- then carpet.
Great wheeling rig overall. I've been using it to get back and forth from work trying to keep miles off the Power Wagon. Ideally, I'm looking to get about $6000 for it. I'm also open to trade it for a center console fishing boat (18-25' range) with a trailer and no motor issues (tade plus cash obviously)
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