Originally posted by Buffalo Phil
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If you could do it ALL over again. (XJ Edition)
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P8R
2012 Honda Accord - For DD/MPG Porpoises - Cooper Tire: Count on Cooper
2014 Granite Crystal WK2 Limited - Nitto Tire: Fueled by Enthusiasts
Poontang Pro 300EX 42" - For lawn porpoises
OG KOT #4736 Semper Sky Rock Racing/Standardbred Racing Designs 15.5 HP Turbo-Cool Craftsman, 6 Spd w/ crawl box, fat turf treads, Custom paint, and a red onzie
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Originally posted by CumminsJeep View PostMy thoughts based on everything I've replaced over the years. I'm sure I'm missing some:
- Exhaust Manifold is a must.
- Fully redo cooling system if over 100k miles - Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.
- New OE Mopar sensors (Or a good aftermarket equivalent) - Crank, temp, oil pressure, throttle position, MAP, IAC, O2s, etc. Anything that can effect the running of the jeep. (Keep old as spares).
- Keep a spare A/C compressor delete pulley with me at all times.
- Check all rubber vacuum/EVAP lines for cracks.
- Motor Mounts - Brown Dog Rubber if you must.
- All fluids changed - Trans, diffs, t case, etc
- D30/C8.25 are plenty fine for anything up to 33s. - 4.56 or 4.88 with 33s.
- Chances are the valve cover gasket and oil filter adapter o ring leak. - replace them.
- A good battery - Probably an AGM of sorts - Odyssey, Optima, DEKA, etc
- New alternator - keep the old as a spare
- New belt and idler pulleys.
- Filters - No FRAM bullshit - NAPA Gold or Platinum.
- Fuel Pump
Virtually replace anything that impacts performance, "Should" be replaced or has a higher failure rate after 100,000ish miles. I replaced a lot of stuff "just because" and I was never left stranded. I also never threw out anything that I replaced that was still "good."
And a little NAPA Know How
Funny thing is... I wanted to not do this stuff to the bro-lite and it is turning into it. At first my thoughts were to get it running and throw a cage in it. I didn't even think about re-doing the brakes because as i understand it in a race you hardly use brakes... i have all new rear brakes and just did the fronts this past weekend.
I don't want to tow the thing 4 hours away to have something fail on me...
Same thing applies to all my vehicles I buy (used). Unless i know something has been serviced (i.e new brakes, sensors, etc.) then i pretty much do a tune up with a cooling system rehash, a full fluid change on the entire drive train at a minimum.2013 F150 fx4 (Tow Pig/DD)- 5.0 with the 3.73 option
2003 TJ Rubicon- 4.0/42rle/np241or
- 5.13's
- 3" Savvy/Currie suspension with acos
- 33” BFG KO2s
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Originally posted by SupermanIce-J View PostGreat reply. I like your idea of keeping the old "still good" stuff.
Funny thing is... I wanted to not do this stuff to the bro-lite and it is turning into it. At first my thoughts were to get it running and throw a cage in it. I didn't even think about re-doing the brakes because as i understand it in a race you hardly use brakes... i have all new rear brakes and just did the fronts this past weekend.
I don't want to tow the thing 4 hours away to have something fail on me...
Same thing applies to all my vehicles I buy (used). Unless i know something has been serviced (i.e new brakes, sensors, etc.) then i pretty much do a tune up with a cooling system rehash, a full fluid change on the entire drive train at a minimum.
I never wanted to be stranded because of a sensor or something else stupid, especially out in the middle of the woods. I always kept a bin in the back of my jeep with everything from hose clamps to pulleys to sensors to a spare water pump and alternator. Call me paranoid...but when you need it and don't have it, you'll be singin a different tune. (quote Burt Gummer)
97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.
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Originally posted by Pedro View PostAre you saying I'm less of a man because I don't want to bang up my brand new $35k JK that I need to work every day?mrs. heavymetal from jeepforum
2022 JL Rubicon
Originally posted by hoggie101
and everyone qute dis because its the best grammer im going to have all year
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Is the body of the black xj still in good shape? Rust free? Going to scrap/part it or put to stock and sell? I ask because maybe it would be cheaper and easier to have a shop do a full motor swap and accessories on this thing to get it to 100%. Stock 4.0, 5.3, 40mpg 4cyl, whatever you want to do to itI drive a Datsun
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