dana 44 price

[konastinky1234]

how much would you guys pay for a dana 44 at 66 wms from like some f 250 or something. high pinion with brakes and all. going to look at one to build, shorten, and maybe use for my jeep. it's 8 lug but i will probably get shafts for it. definitely would need to be geared by yours truly as I doubt it is 4.88 to 5.38 range....

seriously though how much would you pay. guy wants 600 I think it's like 3 times the amount I would want to pay but I have no idea what a good deal on it is.

please advise

[crosbike]

2-300 depends on how good it looks.

[Bigbike]

There's a kid on fb with an 8 lug 44 and 6p for 300

[konastinky1234]

can you maybe get me in touch with him caleb? is it on the new england off road thing? I think harry showed me those if so. I looked at the 44 this guy had, and it was a low pinion from a 76 f250. I gotta do some more research. any way you can make that 44 a 5 lug pattern or even 6 easily?

[lilnapsak]

What year housing is it?

I paid $125 for my HP D44 from a 77' f150. Brakes and hubs were beat to shit though.

I found the f250 housing to be more work than the f150 housing with weld on wedges. Both are HP and have 1/2" tubes, But the f150 housing doesn't have a the driver side leaf perch cast into the pumpkin. In most cases, that perch needs to be cut off to fit a coil mount. Cutting the perch also cuts the mounting location for a case spreader and weakens the strength of the housing. And None of the f250 parts (knuckle out)work with chevy high steer knuckles.

F150 housings (I forget the years they came with weld on wedges, 73-77?) only require you to cut off 4 radius arm wedges, and they come with ford 5x5.5 rotors/hubs that can be reused if you plan to do chevy high steer. for chevy high steer you will need chevy flat top knuckles, chevy caliper brackets, chevy/jeep small bearing spindles and chevy outer stub shafts.

A lot of people narrow these to waggoneer width and use a waggy inner shaft to avoid paying for custom shafts. But waggy width wasn't going to cut it for what I wanted to do..

I'm going to be running a TNT truss for my hp d44. Using waggy shafts would require you to cut uneven amounts off each side of the axle. With the TNT truss, it would make the passenger side stick out about 3/4" more than the diver side. this isn't a huge deal to most, but that would drive me insane. You could modify the truss, but why cut up something that's suppose to make install easy?

I don't remember numbers off the top of my head, but running Rubi inners brings you to a more even width than waggy inners. One side will be off .003 or something stupid. This way you don't run into any centering issues with the truss. Running Rubi inners w/ chevy outers should put me at about 62" WMS. Waggy shafts would be about an inch smaller.

If you need any info on all this I can send you links I have when I get to my computer.

[konastinky1234]

What year housing is it?

I paid $125 for my HP D44 from a 77' f150. Brakes and hubs were beat to shit though.

I found the f250 housing to be more work than the f150 housing with weld on wedges. Both are HP and have 1/2" tubes, But the f150 housing doesn't have a the driver side leaf perch cast into the pumpkin. In most cases, that perch needs to be cut off to fit a coil mount. Cutting the perch also cuts the mounting location for a case spreader and weakens the strength of the housing. And None of the f250 parts (knuckle out)work with chevy high steer knuckles.

F150 housings (I forget the years they came with weld on wedges, 73-77?) only require you to cut off 4 radius arm wedges, and they come with ford 5x5.5 rotors/hubs that can be reused if you plan to do chevy high steer. for chevy high steer you will need chevy flat top knuckles, chevy caliper brackets, chevy/jeep small bearing spindles and chevy outer stub shafts.

A lot of people narrow these to waggoneer width and use a waggy inner shaft to avoid paying for custom shafts. But waggy width wasn't going to cut it for what I wanted to do..

I'm going to be running a TNT truss for my hp d44. Using waggy shafts would require you to cut uneven amounts off each side of the axle. With the TNT truss, it would make the passenger side stick out about 3/4" more than the diver side. this isn't a huge deal to most, but that would drive me insane. You could modify the truss, but why cut up something that's suppose to make install easy?

I don't remember numbers off the top of my head, but running Rubi inners brings you to a more even width than waggy inners. One side will be off .003 or something stupid. This way you don't run into any centering issues with the truss. Running Rubi inners w/ chevy outers should put me at about 62" WMS. Waggy shafts would be about an inch smaller.

If you need any info on all this I can send you links I have when I get to my computer.

Hey yeah thanks, shoot me some info if you have it. mackiej10@gmail.com. I didn't like this axle I saw, and I do know the ones you are talking about with the wedges that are good options. I'm not in a rush so I'm gonna keep looking and learning first. I'm somewhat between what I Want to do here with this axle. I am going to get RCV axles, put gears in it, and get a full carrier arb or ox for it, and shorten it, and replace the outers. This is going to add up quite a bit I'm thinking making the actual axle almost useless to me lol. I priced out a currie crate 44 for like 6.5k, and I'm thinking this thing will cost me like 4+ so I'd almost rather buy the currie because I will end up with an axle with new generation bigger 44 gears, sweet axle shafts, good WMS from the start, and no shortening/shaft work. All I would have to do is put on my brackets and diff innards and go. Plus I wouldn't be spending that much more coin on it in the end since it comes with the outers, knuckles, brakes, and all that crap already set up. What are your thoughts? I can do any fab required but it is going to wind up costing so much anyways I think the crate would be a better buy in the end.

[customcreationsllc]

Nothing I would buy a D60 for $500
You're going to do the same amount of work to get either one to work why not go with one that will last.

[kracker]

Nothing I would buy a D60 for $500
You're going to do the same amount of work to get either one to work why not go with one that will last.

THIS X2

[Harry]

Nothing I would buy a D60 for $500
You're going to do the same amount of work to get either one to work why not go with one that will last.

I would agree wholeheartedly EXCEPT he said he is 100% committed to staying on 35s. I think if you can look yourself in the mirror and tell yourself you'll never ever want to go bigger than 35s, blinged 44 is a great option. If he changes his mind down the road, then we can all point and say "I told you so"

[Harry]

He's also trying to not move up to the next weight class for RCrcos.

[Harry]

How much can you build a 9" front for?

[konastinky1234]

no, I am in the max weight class so I can get as heavy as I want. Are you talking a 9" junkyard axle? Haven't even given it a thought. But ya, if you know you're staying with 35s a 60 isn't the best option I'm thinking. Still don't know, so doing my research on all options now. I'll look into a 9. What would you grab it out of you think?

[konastinky1234]

also, buying that 60 for 500 bucks is just the first step there are so many steps that involve money after that as well it seems to me at this point. Obviously I don't know as much as you Justin and I am certainly not crossing any ideas off my list right now. If I do a 60 front I will also need to be doing a 60 rear or greater, maybe both is best. Convince me, I want to know all the options here, how much, and how to do it the best way. I want to use these things to race on too so keep that in mind. Not gonna be welding the spider gears together I'm gonna have to put some money in them whatever they turn out to be.

Such a hard decision with so many options

[Harry]

Temptation to go bigger once you ditch the 30 will be strong. Why are you committed to 35s?

[kracker]

just stretch it and throw the tons on and some 40s....you know you want to...