Doesn't add up to me

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

This is kind of a take off of Josh's D30 thread sparked by Mikes decision of 35's or 37's in his build thread.

Anyway, keeping this strictly between 33" tires and 35" tires, and a front D30 axle:

So my point is, in terms of breaking a D30 I don't see a huge difference with running a 33 compared to a 35. Does that 1" of rolling radius cross the line between a shaft snapping and one holding together? If you have the same width tire your contact area doesn't change so neither will traction. On the same accord, does the weight of some 20" of rubber area really cross that same line???

Not targeting anyone but for everyone who runs 33's instead of 35's or doesn't lock a 30 on 35's whats your reasoning behind it??

[HeavyMetal]

i didnt lock my d30 on 33s either

i think a lot of people put way too much weight with "on paper" thinking, myself being guilty of it as with anyone else in the past

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

I'm just looking for a reason of why someone would lock one on 33's but not on 35's. Thought it would be a good decision topic.

[Buffalo Phil]

I have a locked front end and you know that. 33" tires on a D30 / 8.25.

To be honest, that extra 1" of rotating mass doesn't seem like a lot, but you know what, I'm not going to push it. The tire itself is larger and heavier and I personally don't want to put any more stress on my front or rear than I already do. The added weight of a larger tire is something I don't want to deal with.

If you want 35" tires, go for it, homeboy, but I'll stick to my 33s.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Yeah this isn't about me / for my Jeep BTW. If it was I would have thrown it in tech. More of seeing what the general thought process was behind this

[Buffalo Phil]

Yeah this isn't about me / for my Jeep BTW. If it was I would have thrown it in tech. More of seeing what the general thought process was behind this

In reality, my thought process is heavily persuaded by American Currency.

35" Tires are more expensive than 33" tires (thought not much, really), the general upkeep on my drivetrain riding on 33" tires is enough and I cannot afford to upgrade to 35" tires and to have a more solid drivetrain to handle that magical one inch of tire and weight.

I worry about the C-clipped axle I have in the rear. I'm sure the 8.25 29 spline can handle the 35" tires, but why push it?

I like how me jeep sits, how it wheels and how it rides and I feel if I do anything to it, it may change.

[netrachamp1853]

I think theres a couple variables acting on the axle as the tire size goes up. The biggest I think is leverage, and traction. Just like how you have more force with a longer prybar that 1'' does make a difference. If you have a tire spinning and coming to a sudden stop a bigger tire is going to have more leverage on the axle shaft in the center. That force becomes greater as the traction of the tire is greater. If you have bald 35's at 32psi you prob wouldnt have to worry, but considering no one does that (people at least that know what they are doing). My next set of tires may be 35's but I wouldnt worry about my D30 because I'm more a finesse wheeler and crawl everything I can. Not saying that every axle shaft ever broken was do to the sudden stop of spinning tires haha, but I think it does have an affect.

[Burton58]

i just said this in mikes thread before i saw this one. it seems to me that there is a threshhold for breaking a certain axle. 33's is close enough to that point on a 30 (some wont ever break, some break every week) while 35's pushes it even closer to that point.

i don't think there is a huge difference in the rolling mass between the 2, but it just gets that much closer to the edge so to speak. seems the same goes with running 35's vs 37's on a d44 (depending how built)

my old xj ran 35's locked on a 30 and never broke anything... but i was constantly afraid of it just in case. there is much more of an ease on my mind running locked on 33's instead and being able to beat on it just a little more

[Ruepart Hoaxley]

It adds weight, but by how large of a percentage I have no idea, and am in no way motivated to attempt the math.

Skinny pedal and wheeling style (and locked/unlocked) would play more of a part, I think.

[CumminsJeep]

This seems like a thread for CB3

[Zullock Holmes]

my 2 cents. i ran 33's never broke anything. Stepped up to 35's and shit starting blowing up and breaking left and right. So yes, it may seem minimal. But its there. Just avoid it all, run dana60's with 31" all terrains

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

my 2 cents. i ran 33's never broke anything. Stepped up to 35's and shit starting blowing up and breaking left and right. So yes, it may seem minimal. But its there. Just avoid it all, run dana60's with 31" all terrains

Yeah but when your were on 33's you weren't trying to see if you can get your foot through the radiator. You had a limit then Mr. WAN NAN NAN NAN NAN

[LittleD]

I think it all depends on how hard your going to be wheeling your shit, if your the type to put the pedal to the floor on the first try, you're gonna break tons more than a light wheeler. I always here the "you can wheel the same things on 33's as you can on 35's" so why put unneeded stress on the axle?

[netrachamp1853]

I agree with this, with the normal group of people that I wheel with my cherokee on 33's is usually the smallest rig by at least 2 tire sizes, and Ive never had a problem following them anywhere. With a little driver mod and patience you can make a cherokee locked on 33's go "almost" anywhere.

[wannabejeep]

With a little driver mod and patience you can make a cherokee locked on 33's go "almost" anywhere.

I always think about Justin and his xj before the axle swap.locked on 31 inch mall terrains and he went everywhere the 33 guys went. That always impressed me.