tom went through 2 or 3 sets of superwinch hubs on his trooper in a few months.
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My 1950 Willys Trail Rig
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hmmm looks like superwinch is not that great. I just am not impressed with Warns either. I have one friend who had the Dynarac locking hubs and I wasn't very impressed by them either. It was always a fight to engage them.1950 Willys Trail Rig
2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4
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Owen, if you search around I'm almost positive I remember seeing a company or two on Pirate that sells removable drive slugs. When you pop off the trail, unscrew the cap, pull the slug, then throw the cap back on.
Seems like the best of both worlds to me.
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Originally posted by Buffalo Phil View PostThis...I can understand the appeal to locking hubs, but you can disengage your front axle completely...why have them? One less thing to break, no?"when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"
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Originally posted by Even View PostOwen, if you search around I'm almost positive I remember seeing a company or two on Pirate that sells removable drive slugs. When you pop off the trail, unscrew the cap, pull the slug, then throw the cap back on.
Seems like the best of both worlds to me.1950 Willys Trail Rig
2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4
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Originally posted by Buffalo Phil View PostThis...I can understand the appeal to locking hubs, but you can disengage your front axle completely...why have them? One less thing to break, no?
1)Basically it would be making the front a semi-floater.
2) I have a spool in the front, it is definately noticable when driving on the street with the hubs locked, even with the front drive disengaged. When going around turns one side is not able to spin faster or slower so you get the jerky, pushing feeling.
Poly performance has drive flanges for 35 spline outers, that you can remove the slugs from but still have the caps on. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...ears-p-61.html
A lof of other ones the cap bolts to the slug, so without the slug, you can't run a cap. Not a big deal but I gotta keep the gunk out of my 30 year old timkin bearings!1950 Willys Trail Rig
2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4
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Before the Comp.
New Fuel cell:
I bought this cell used, it had already been modded to run a YJ sending unit, but I wanted to change it a little
Old: The previous owner made this ring which worked well, but the bolts went through to nuts, so if you wanted to change the fuel pump, you were stuck removing the filler and having to stick your hand in there.
I made my own ring which I tapped for 10-24 fasteners and then attached to the fuel cell with countersunk allen head screws at each corner of the ring (you can kindof see them in one pic, my digital camera "lost" some of the pictures I took when I built it )
I wound up using the sending unit out of my 89 parts wrangler with a stock 4cylinder tbi pump (89 yj) and it works great. I pulled the sock off of the strainer and pressed in a 5/16" hose barb to 1/4" NPT male and then ran a T to a Walbro snowmobile pickup at each side. The end result is it runs great on angles, I just need a new gasket to keep the fuel from seeping out when the jeep is on its side
Shocks
I mounted them to the cage and outside of the axle, they seem to work well except they just brush the coil buckets a little. I could move them a little or just switch to an air shock or something silly.
Tail lights
I got these cool optronics strip LEDs on sale when I ordered the lights for my trailer. They look a lot nicer, a great tail light solution for a dovetailed rig.
I made some side protection, so the light no longer functions as a side marker, but I am thinking about drilling some holes in it so it will (not that I care)
Damage
Nothing a hammer cant fix
I added a couple leafs and I had threads just shy of the top of the nut, guess it wasn't enough threads
1950 Willys Trail Rig
2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4
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